Waeco magicspeed ms-50

Description:- Inexpensive entry-level cruise control system for versatile use- User-friendly remote control with LED indicator- No modifications to vehicle documents required- Suitable for installation in passenger vehicles and most vans with gasoline or diesel engines – Can work with manual or automatic transmissions

Functions: – Switch on/off – Speed ​​setting – Reset previous speed setting – Smooth adjustment of the speed setting (speed up/down speed) – Automatic disengagement when pressing the clutch or accelerator pedal – Self-diagnosis

Accessories: Vacuum servo with Bowden cable, electronic module, speed sensor, cable set, clutch pedal switch, control panel, manual

Power: 12 V

Installation time (average): 4-5 hours

Installation requirements: On-board network 12V, mechanical accelerator pedal drive, vacuum source (connection through a tee to the vacuum line)

Temperature range: -40° to +85° C

Warranty period: 12 months

Dometic WAECO International GmbH – the largest company with a thirty-year history, designs and manufactures versatile products in the field of mobility solutions, which rightfully leads the market for products for various types of vehicles, yachts and boats

IMAGES
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
1.0 INTRODUCTION
2.0 USER INFORMATION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
MAGIC SPEED
3.0 GENERAL INSTALLATION AND SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
4.0 REQUIREMENTS FOR OPERATION MS 50
5.0 REQUIRED TOOLS (SEE A 5 – A 17)
6.0 SCOPE OF DELIVERY
7.0 INSTALLING THE VACUUM SERVO (SEE C 1)
VACUUM SERVO INSTALLATION – MOUNTING OPTIONS
THROTTLE LINKAGE FITTING
INSTALLATION ON VEHICLES WITHOUT THROTTLE ACTUATOR
VACUUM SERVO – VACUUM CONNECTION (SEE E 3)
8.0 WIRING AND ASSEMBLY OF THE ELECTRONIC MODULE
9.0 INSTALLING THE CLUTCH SWITCH (SEE H 2)
10.0 INSTALLING THE CONTROL UNIT (SEE H 3)
11.0 SPEED SENSOR INSTALLATION
Installing the Speed ​​Sensor – Cardan Shaft
Installing the Speed ​​Sensor – Front Wheel Drive Vehicle
12.0 MAGIC SPEED CRUISE CONTROL (SEE K 3)
13.0 COMMISSIONING AND FUNCTIONAL TEST
14.0 SAFETY INFORMATION
15.0 TEST RUN AND ADJUSTMENTS
16.0 TROUBLESHOOTING
TROUBLESHOOTING – TEST A
TROUBLESHOOTING – TEST B

Waeco Magic Speed ​​MS-50 cruise control installation manual in Russian.

Translation into Russian was made by Dmitry Pogrebnyak in 2013.

Original on Waeco website (pdf)

ATTENTION! This is an amateur translation made for review based on publicly available materials. The author of the translation does not guarantee its accuracy and is not responsible for possible problems associated with the use of this translation.

See also installation description for Kia Cerato.

IMAGES

Cruise control MS 50 automatically controls the speed of your vehicle. The selected speed remains constant over long distances (for example, in speed-limited areas, or during long motorway journeys), allowing the driver to pay more attention to traffic conditions.

The MS 50 can be installed in almost all vehicles with a 12 volt on-board electrical system, both manual and automatic transmissions. The scope of delivery includes all mechanical and electrical components required for installation on a vehicle.

0 USER INFORMATION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Safety Warning “Attention!”:

Failure to comply with this warning may result in personal injury or material damage.

Safety Warning Caution:

Failure to comply with this warning may result in damage to materials and adversely affect the operation of the MS 50.

To ensure trouble-free installation, please read this manual carefully before operating. Pay attention to the section “Requirements for running MAGIC SPEED MS 50” in chapter 4.0.

MAGIC SPEED

MAGIC SPEED, automatic cruise control, allows you to go as fast as you want, but not faster than allowed. Once you have reached the desired speed, you enter it into the microcomputer by pressing a button. The microcomputer constantly compares the current speed with the set speed. Any deviations are automatically corrected.

These instructions contain the explanations and information needed to install MAGIC SPEED. Therefore, please read them carefully before starting the installation.

The installation of MAGIC SPEED requires general knowledge of the vehicle and must be carried out very carefully, as the safety of the vehicle may be affected in some areas, for example, when connecting the throttle to the gas control mechanism or to the diesel pump.

0 GENERAL INSTALLATION AND SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Attention! To avoid short circuits, always disconnect the negative terminal from the battery before starting work. In the event that the car is equipped with an additional battery, also disconnect the negative terminal from it.

Attention! Incorrect connection of cables can lead to a short circuit, which can cause:

– ignition of cables;

– airbag deployment;

– damage to electronic equipment;

– malfunction of electrical functions (direction indicators, brake light, horn, ignition, headlights and lanterns).

Please note the following:

The following connections are used for working with cables:

30 (direct plus input from battery)

15 (connected plus behind the battery, “ignition”)

31 (return cable to battery, neutral)

Use only insulated connections, connectors or cable twists. Do not use terminal connections or terminal blocks. The safest way to connect is to solder the ends of the wires and then insulate the connection.

Use crimping tool to connect wires.

For cable connection to 31 (ground):

Attach the cable with a shackle and a toothed washer to a grounded screw or to the car body using a shackle, a metal screw and a toothed washer.

Be sure to check that the earth connection is secure.

Beware! If the negative terminal of the battery is disconnected, data in the RAM of electronic devices may be lost.

Depending on the vehicle equipment, the following parameters may need to be re-entered:

– Chair position settings

Information on setting them up can be read in the corresponding instructions.

Attention! The MAGIC SPEED MS 50 components located inside the vehicle must be securely fixed so that they cannot loosen and injure passengers in unforeseen circumstances (emergency braking, traffic accident).

Beware! Do not install anything in the area of ​​the airbags.

Beware! To check the presence of voltage in the wires, use only a diode test lamp or a voltmeter. Incandescent pilot lamps draw too much current, which can damage automotive equipment.

Beware! To avoid damage, make sure that there is free space for drilling holes.

0 WORK REQUIREMENTS MS 50

– On-board network of a car with a voltage of 12 Volts

– Pulley, or throttle lever

0 REQUIRED TOOLS (SEE A 5 – A 17)

The following tools are required for installation and assembly:

– Ruler (see A 5)

– Punch (see A 6)

– Hammer (see A 7)

– Metal drill set (see A 8)

– Drill or cordless screwdriver (see A 9)

– Set of flat and Phillips screwdrivers in various sizes (see A 10)

– Flat and semicircular files

– Pencil or marker

– Set of box and open end wrenches (see A 11)

– Set of sockets (see A 12)

– Jack (see A 13)

The following is required for making and checking electrical connections:

– Diode test lamp (see A 1) or voltmeter (see A 2)

– Crimping tool (see A 15)

– Hot air source

– Soldering iron (see A 16)

– Solder (see A 17)

0 DELIVERY SET

The vacuum servo (B 2) regulates the throttle opening and controls the vehicle speed. The kit contains a vacuum servomotor with flexible damper rod. The best place to mount in the engine bay is the bulkhead or the inside of the fenders. To avoid damage to electronics and mechanisms, make sure that the temperature does not exceed 100°C. Figures C 2 through E 3 illustrate various methods for attaching a cable to a carburetor. See D 2 for a detailed list of vacuum servo components. The following describes how to attach the cable to the carburetor. To ensure excellent cruise control performance, the throttle actuator must be in good condition (i.e. not weak, sticking, etc.). If your car is an injection type, then the installation instructions refer to the throttle body, not the carburetor, and in the case of a diesel engine, to the fuel injection pump.

1. Determine which method is suitable for connecting the rod to the throttle assembly (see C 2 and C 3). On vehicles without a throttle valve, the connection can be made directly to the accelerator pedal (see E 2).

Please note: the servo moves the rod by approx. 40 mm. Select an anchor point on the accelerator or vehicle cable to match the 40mm distance as closely as possible. Mismatch can result in excessive tension on the servo cable or limited operating range. The cable should pull the throttle lever in a straight line. The deflection of the thrust angle must not exceed 20°.

2. Using two 6 x 19mm metal screws, attach the vacuum servo to the inside of the fenders or bulkhead of the car.

3. Depending on how the actuator cable is connected, the components shown will be used (see D 1 and D 2)

WARNING! Throttle linkage must be kept away from rotating or hot parts.

4. Attach the throttle link to the accessory mount or to the original cable (See C 2 to E 3)

5. Attach the swivel bolt or cable clamp to the throttle body or cable as shown in the illustration for your vehicle type (See C 2 to E 3). Push the MS-50 drive inner cable through the bolt or cable clamp, attach the stopper, and push it against the bolt or cable clamp. Make sure the throttle is in the idle position (when the engine is warm). Now finally fix the stopper.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and make sure that the throttle link cannot catch on anything. While moving the throttle or diesel pump with one hand so that the throttle link is released, with the other hand check if the cable can be caught on anything. If so, the rod should be placed elsewhere.

7. The inner cable of the MS 50 drive must be able to slip through the bolt or through the cable clamp. The bolt must be able to turn to ensure safe slippage.

WARNING! The cruise control is designed with various features to ensure the safety and reliability of the electronic components. However, none of these features will prevent the engine from suddenly running out of control if the throttle control system gets stuck. So do a few checks carefully.

ATTENTION! Make sure all cables and hoses that have been disconnected are reconnected, otherwise the engine may be damaged or may run with excessive exhaust.

VACUUM SERVO INSTALLATION – MOUNTING OPTIONS

Option 1 (see C 2):

Attaches to an existing or additional (B 6) throttle lever.

The MS-50 throttle link will be connected through the rotating bolt. The throttle linkage may slip through the bolt when the accelerator pedal is depressed.

Option 2 (see C 3):

Connect directly to the throttle actuator. The MS-50 throttle link will be attached to the cable clamp attached to the drive cable. The MS-50 throttle linkage may slip through the clamp when the accelerator pedal is depressed.

THROTTLE LINKAGE FIT

(see D 1 to E 1)

INSTALLATION ON VEHICLES WITHOUT THROTTLE ACTUATOR

Always cut the vacuum hose between the check valve and the vacuum pump inlet (engine side).

1. Cut the vacuum hose between the check valve and the vacuum pump inlet (engine side).

2. Insert a suitable tee (B 44, B 45, B 48) into the cut vacuum hose and tighten with clamps.

3. Connect the vacuum servo and tee with a vacuum hose (B 47).

WARNING! Push the vacuum hoses as far as possible. Make sure all disconnected vacuum hoses are reconnected, otherwise the engine may be damaged or produce excessive exhaust. Make sure the vacuum hoses are properly secured and check them periodically. Defective or loose vacuum hose connections will prevent the attached components from working properly.

0 WIRING AND ASSEMBLY OF THE ELECTRONIC UNIT

(see E 3 to H 1)

1. The battery must be disconnected before wiring.

2. Make sure the cruise control electronic module and cables are located or run at least 30 centimeters away from the distributor, ignition coil or high voltage wires.

3. Choose a suitable place for the electronic module inside the car. Suitable places are under the instrument panel, behind the glove box or inside the console. When choosing a location, remember that you will need to make adjustments to the electronic module. Also take into account the length of the cables to be laid (B 3).

4. If necessary, remove the trim.

5. Two Ø 2.5mm holes must be drilled to fix the electronic module. To do this, hold the electronics module in the intended position and mark the holes to be drilled. First, make sure that there is enough space for drilling holes.

6. Fix the electronic module with self-tapping screws (B 11).

7. Specify the method for determining the speed of your car.

Option 1: Use the magnetic sensor included in the delivery (see chapter 11.0, I 2).

Option 2: Use original speedometer signal. Many cars have an original speedometer signal, for example, to adjust the volume of the radio depending on the speed. Your authorized dealer will be able to tell if your vehicle has the original speedometer signal.

ATTENTION! Switch off the ignition before connecting the orange wire. Make sure the battery is disconnected.

NOTE: Make sure it is a continuously active 12V connection (+ terminal 15). Do not use pulsating connections such as an air conditioner, fan, etc., as M S-50 will trip in case of voltage ripple.

8. Connect the connector to the electronic module.

9. Route the three-wire cable (black, white, red) to the vacuum servo, through a suitable hole in the engine compartment. If speed detection is implemented via a magnetic sensor, a shielded two-wire black cable (with blue and black wires inside) must also be routed into the engine compartment.

10. Connect the green cable to ground.

Please note! For cable connection to terminal 31 (ground): Screw the cable with lug and toothed washer to the vehicle’s original ground screw, or lug and metal screw to the housing. Make sure the ground connection is secure.

11. Connect the orange fused cable to +12V terminal 15 (ignition) using connector B 14.

12. Connecting a two-core cable (brown and brown/white). Connect the brown cable to the brake light switch using the connector (see F 1). Connect the brown/white cable to the positive side of the permanently fused circuit. In the case of a vehicle with a manual transmission, the clutch switch must also be installed and connected (see chapter 9).

13. Using the four-pin connector, connect the control box to the electronic module so that each colored wire connects to the same color (see chapter 10).

14. If the original speedometer signal is used, connect the blue wire of the two-wire cable to the corresponding original cable. The black wire of the two-core cable is not needed and must be insulated.

15. Connect the three-core cable (black, white, red) to the vacuum servo using the assembled connectors, connecting colors to the same colors.

16. Pull the excess length of the cable back into the passenger compartment and tighten with clamps.

17. Do not install the cladding until all work is completed, the functionality has been successfully tested and the test drive has been completed (Chapter 13 – 16).

0 CLUTCH SWITCH SETTING (SEE H 2)

Vehicles with manual transmission must also have a clutch switch (B 5). The clutch switch (B 5) consists of a magnet and a reed switch. The magnet is glued to the clutch pedal and secured with clamps. The reed switch is connected to the car body or clutch buffer, the clutch is connected as shown in the diagram (B 5) (see F 1 and G 1)

0 CONTROL UNIT INSTALLATION (SEE H 3)

The driver’s commands are entered using the control unit, which transmits them to the microprocessor in the electronic module. The control unit must be located in a suitable place to allow the driver to operate it even in emergency situations. Suitable locations: on the instrument panel, on the console or on the steering column (see H 3).

WARNING! Ensure that the driver does not need to put their hand through the steering wheel to operate the control box.

Wherever possible, always use existing cable ducts or other openings for cable routing, such as cladding panel joints, ventilation grilles, button caps. If a suitable hole is not found, a hole Ø 6 mm is required. First check if there is enough free space to drill the hole.

1. Select a suitable location (see H 3) for the control box (B 1) and clean the surface.

2. Remove the protective film and attach the control box (B 1) to the selected location.

3. If there is no suitable hole for wires, drill a suitable hole near the control box (B 1).

4. Deburr the hole made in the sheet metal and treat with anti-corrosion coating.

5. Place the cable gland in the pointed holes.

6. Push the cable through the hole behind the dashboard.

7. Insert the wire plugs into the four-pin connector. Make sure the wire colors match the wire colors on the opposite connector (see I 1).

8. Connect the four-pin connectors on the cable from the control unit and on the cable set (B 3).

0 SPEED SENSOR SETTING

The task of the speed sensor (B 21) is to transmit electrical impulses to the electronic module.

1. Block the front wheels with chocks.

WARNING! Never use the jack alone! Many accidents happen because the car is off the jack. Before working under the vehicle, always place an additional safety stand.

2. Make sure the transmission is in neutral and release the handbrake.

3. Raise the back of the car until there is enough room to work.

4. Place the vehicle on the stands.

5. Attach the speed sensor (B 21) to the bracket (B 26) (see I 2). Use the hole most suitable for your vehicle. Speed ​​sensor connectors must be turned up. Use nut (B 23) and lock washer (B 22).

6. Then hold the bracket on the bottom of the vehicle at a distance of about 30 centimeters from the cardan connection (see I 2 to I 4): the distance between the speed sensor and the cardan shaft should be 14 mm.

7. Using the bracket as a template, mark two holes, then drill Ø 4.5 mm holes. Secure the bracket using two 6 x 19 mm sheet metal screws (B 25).

8. Then attach the magnet to the cardan shaft.

9. Clean the place where the magnet will be attached.

10. Place the plastic band with magnet (B 24) around the propeller shaft and pull the end of the band through the fastener on the other end. Do not tighten the tape yet.

11. Move the magnet until it is against the clasp of the plastic band.

12. The magnet must be placed so as to rotate directly below the sensor (see I 2).

13. Tighten the plastic tape and cut off the excess.

14. The bracket with the sensor coil must be placed in such a way that the distance between the top of the coil and the magnet is 3 – 5 mm (see I 3).

15.Now pull the shielded two-wire cable (blue and black wires) from the hole in the baffle to the connection points on the sensor coil (B 21). ( Polarity is not important)

16. Secure the cable with cable ties (B 13) so that it cannot come into contact with any rotating or hot part of the vehicle.

17. Remove the stops and lower the jack.

Installing the speed sensor – Front wheel drive vehicle

1. Install the sensor on the left or right side.

Examples are shown on J 3 and J 4

2. Jack up the side of the vehicle where the sensor will be installed and remove the wheel for easy access.

3. Attach the bracket (B 26) of the speed sensor to the gearbox housing using the original bolt so that the distance between the magnet and the sensor is approximately 3 – 5 mm (see K 1).

4. Attach the spool (B 21) to the bracket (B 26). Choose a suitable hole. Use nut (B 23) and lock washer (B 22) to install (see K 2)

5. Proceed with installation as described in steps 8 to 17 (Speed ​​sensor installation – Cardan shaft)

0 MAGIC SPEED CRUISE CONTROL (SEE K 3)

MAGIC SPEED is turned on by pressing the ON/OFF button once. The LED will light up.

To turn MAGIC SPEED off, press the ON/OFF button again. The LED will turn off.

1. The current speed is set by briefly pressing the “SET” button. Speed ​​is maintained until one of the following occurs:

a) depressing the brake or clutch pedal;

b) the device is switched off by pressing the “ON/OFF” button (LED goes out);

c) the vehicle speed drops below 40 – 50 km/h;

d) the climb speed will drop by more than 25% of the set speed.

2. If the “SET” button is kept pressed, the car will accelerate.

When the button is released, the cruise control will remember the reached speed and maintain it.

If the “RES” button is pressed briefly, the last memorized speed is entered, provided that:

a) the device is turned on by pressing the ON/OFF button (the LED on the control unit is on);

b) the vehicle speed is not lower than the minimum speed of 40 – 50 km/h;

c) the brake and clutch pedals are not depressed;

d) the ignition has not been turned off since the entry of the speed;

e) the current speed is at least 50% of the memorized speed.

SPEED AND SLOW DOWN:

When cruise control is active, you can also make fine adjustments. If you briefly press the “SET” button once, the speed will increase by about 1 km/h. If you press the “RES” button once, the speed will be reduced by about 1 km/h. This function allows you to match the vehicle speed to the traffic speed or speed limit. Cruise control remembers the number of clicks. For example, if you press the “SET” button three times, or the “RES” button five times, the cruise control will increase or decrease the vehicle speed by 3 km/h or 5 km/h respectively.

NOTE: If you want to reduce the vehicle speed by a large amount, do not use the “RES” button. Instead, use the “OFF” button, the brake or clutch pedal, and then set the new speed with the “SET” button.

0 COMMISSIONING AND FUNCTIONAL TEST

The electronic module is equipped with a diagnostic program, so all functions and electrical connections must be checked before the first test run (see chapter 16. Test A and Test B).

The display is made by the LED on the electronic module. It is best to carry out a practical test (test drive) on a road with free traffic.

Cruise control cannot be tested correctly when the vehicle is on a jack or chock because there is no mechanical inertia factor.

0 SAFETY INFORMATION

Cruise control can be disabled in the following ways:

a) pressing the brake pedal;

b) pressing the clutch pedal;

c) by pressing the ON/OFF button once;

d) reducing the vehicle speed by approximately 25% below the set speed;

Cruise control is also deactivated if the electrical connections are broken or the stop lamps are faulty. The electronic module and the vacuum servo are equipped with a set of features to ensure safety. If one or more components fail, cruise control will automatically disengage.

For safe and economical operation,

NEVER turn on MAGIC SPEED:

– in conditions of heavy traffic associated with frequent stops and accelerations

– on wet or slippery (icy) roads!

PLEASE NOTE: If a situation occurs in which steps a) to c) above fail to disable cruise control, MAGIC SPEED can be deactivated by turning off the ignition. Never remove the ignition key while the vehicle is in motion as this will lock the steering wheel.

0 TEST RUN AND ADJUSTMENTS

Your cruise control is set at the factory. If it is installed properly, it should work satisfactorily on most vehicles. To check if further adjustments are needed, test run as follows:

1. Turn on MAGIC SPEED by pressing ON/OFF once. The LED will light up.

2. Press the “SET” button and slowly accelerate the car using the accelerator pedal to a speed of 40 – 50 km/h. Cruise control should pick up at speeds between 40 and 50 km/h. This is the minimum operating speed. In this case, the LED on the electronic module flashes approximately once per second. If the cruise control did not pick up at a speed of 40 – 50 km / h, but at a higher speed, then additional magnets must be installed. If the cruise control picks up at speeds below 40 km / h, but ceases to operate at speeds greater than 80-120 km / h, and the LED flashes more than once per second, then the black wire loop on the electronic module must be cut. This will change the pulse count from 1250 pulses per kilometer to 8000 pulses per kilometer.

3. Increase the speed of your vehicle to 80 km/h. Then press the “SET” button and slowly take your foot off the accelerator. Cruise control should smoothly pick up and maintain a constant speed.

– If the vehicle slows down when the cruise control is active, or reacts very slowly, increase the sensitivity setting by moving the switch on the electronic module to position “H” = high sensitivity (see K 4). Before doing this, turn off the ignition and gently depress the brake pedal to reset the electronic module memory.

– If the vehicle picks up speed when the cruise control is active, or is acting too abruptly, reduce the sensitivity setting by moving the switch on the electronic module to position “L” = low sensitivity (see K 4). Before doing this, turn off the ignition and gently depress the brake pedal to reset the electronic module memory.

4. Continue driving at approximately 80 km/h and activate the cruise control. Then deactivate the cruise control by braking or using the “ON/OFF” button. Then turn the “ON/OFF” button back to the on position. Then slow down to about 60 km/h. Now press the “RES” button and the cruise control should gradually accelerate the car to the previously set speed of 80 km/h.

5. When the cruise control is engaged, press the clutch. The clutch deactivates the cruise control. If this is not the case, check the wires and the distance between the magnet and the reed switch (see chapter 9.0 Installing the clutch switch).

0 TROUBLESHOOTING

The installation of the MAGIC SPEED cruise control is completed and the battery has been reconnected.

Run tests in sequence for Test A, and then for Test B.

TROUBLESHOOTING – TEST A

Checking electronic components and electrical connections

TROUBLESHOOTING – TEST B

Checking the vacuum servo and its connections

Preface
Purchase
Preparation
Vacuum servo
Wiring
Electronic module
Buttons
Tests
Improvements
Neutral protection
Indication
“CRUISE” indicator
“SET” indicator
Summary
Malfunctions
Related materials

See also my translation of the Waeco MagicSpeed ​​MS-50 installation instructions into Russian.

Preface

Fortunately, over the past hundred years, the automotive industry has stepped far ahead and spewed out such a phenomenon as “cruise control” – a system that maintains a given speed. Unfortunately, it went so far that it jumped over most of the cars produced, including my Kia Cerato LD (restyled) of 2008, which housed a 1.6-liter gasoline engine, which was not equipped with this wonderful speed control system, but is capable of proudly boasting rare mechanical cable-operated throttle.

The German company Waeco, specializing in the production of all kinds of car refrigerators and other heaters for the priests, volunteered to help the trouble of people like me. They brought to light several varieties of kits for installing cruise control on almost any car, united by the common name MagicSpeed. Among them are more “screwed” – MS 400 and MS 700 systems, which have a bunch of settings, the control panel for which must be purchased separately, to choose from one of three varieties.

The simplest system – MS50, requires nothing from the car: a 12-volt on-board network, a vacuum (vacuum) and a mechanical throttle actuator. The kit comes with everything you need, including the remote control. The system does everything that cruise control needs: operating the throttle, maintains the speed at a given level, allows you to slightly increase and decrease the speed with single button presses and restore the previous memorized speed.

The speed can be read both from the vehicle speed sensor, and by installing an additional magnetic sensor (which comes with the kit) on some rotating part such as a cardan shaft or a wheel drive.

Purchase

At my timid attempt to find out if the most respected official of the dealers would deign to take on the installation of such a trifle on my car, and for what earthly goods in ruble terms, I was dismissed as a midnight ghost.

Thinking that I have become completely lazy for almost four and a half years of owning a foreign car, I will soon forget how to hold a screwdriver in my hands, I decided to do everything myself.

The cruise control kit consists of three parts:

– an electronic module that decides to press the gas or release it;

– a vacuum servomotor, which, under the guidance of the said block, succumbing to the force of a powerful vacuum and atmospheric pressure, pulls the throttle;

– and a block of buttons that controls this whole structure.

There is also an inductive speed sensor, which is needed if the car does not transmit a speed signal. As well as a bundle of wires connecting it all, and a bunch of all sorts of screws, tongues, pieces of iron and other trinkets necessary for installation.

All this rigmarole is supplied with instructions in a bunch of non-Russian languages. Fortunately, my knowledge of English was enough.

The electrical connection to the car consists of screwing five wires into the right places:

– permanent plus from the battery,

– wire going from the switch to the brake lights,

– power supply, up to 3 amperes, connected to the ignition,

– and the wire to which speed impulses should be applied.

The first two wires are simply screwed to the wires before and after the brake light switch. If the car has a manual transmission, then a reed switch is added to the break in the wire after the switch, which opens the circuit when the clutch pedal is pressed. This wire is always shorted to ground through the stop lamps. If the short to ground disappears, or it is shorted to positive, then the cruise control will turn off. For cars with diode brake lights, this can be a problem, because. diode lamps do not allow to close to the body (the problem can be solved by installing some load parallel to the diode brake lights, for example, a small light bulb). If, for any reason, the wire breaks, this will also lead to the cruise control being turned off, which is very good.

The most difficult thing in this whole business was to find places where to install the above three devices. After lying down for a couple of hours in deep thought, armed with a diagram downloaded from the Internet for my self-propelled unit, as well as instructions for disassembling it, I wandered off to collect all this on a car.

This cruise control model uses a vacuum servo. This has its advantages for safety: when the engine is turned off and the vacuum in the vacuum line disappears, it stops pulling the throttle. At the same time, the movement of the damper is carried out with the help of atmospheric pressure and vacuum, which does not load the electrical network. Only three wires with control signals and a vacuum tube fit the drive.

The problem is finding a place to fix it. At first, I found two wonderful holes on the “glass”, into which the fastening screws were screwed into as if they were native – it turned out that it was not necessary to drill anything, just slightly bore the holes on the servo mount. But, since the cable turned out to be lying on top of the engine, I decided to make a couple of holes with a diameter of 3 mm in the partition of the car and move the servo there. Despite the fact that the servo hung securely in the newly designated place, and the wires, tube and cable went around the engine and did not touch anything, THE OPTION OF FASTENING TO THE PARTITION TURNED OUT TO BE BAD! The fact is that the cable coming out of the servo turned out to be exactly above the hole in the exhaust manifold casing. The exhaust manifold can heat up to 200-300 degrees.

In the summer, in the heat, with the air conditioner running in traffic jams, there is practically no ventilation of the engine compartment, and the flow of hot air from the exhaust manifold blows over everything that is above the opening of the casing. As a result, a couple of hours in a traffic jam may be enough for the cable to overheat in this place and its jacket to deform. After such a deformation, the cable cannot move freely and jams, not wanting to release the gas. This picture happened to me too.

It turned out that the cable is not so difficult to replace. It is exactly the same as a 5mm jacketed bike shift cable.

For details on replacement, please refer to chapter “Occurring Malfunctions”. On my second try, I purchased a longer cable, just long enough to put the servo on the “glass” by screwing it into those tempting holes. To avoid overheating and melting in the future, all the wires, the vacuum tube and, most importantly, the cable in the area above the exhaust manifold were wrapped in plastic corrugation and wrapped with heat-insulating material on top, which will redistribute heat over a larger surface, preventing the wires and cable from overheating in the same places.

It is very easy to check the cable operation: hold the throttle in the open position with one hand (or ask an assistant to depress the gas pedal), with the other – try to move the tip of the cable. The cable should absolutely easily, without any resistance, go inside the shirt for the entire working stroke (4 cm) and also easily pull out back. If the cable comes in with a noticeable effort, or, moreover, it is not possible to push it through at all, then this is already a cause for concern. In this case, I recommend not using cruise control until the cable is replaced.

The second difficulty is attaching the cable rod to the throttle. In the general case, on cars with a gas cable, you can fasten the mount to the horizontal section of the cable and finish it, but in my case it turned out that there is almost no horizontal section: the gas cable goes into the cable almost immediately behind the throttle pulley.

Having twisted and turned the piece of iron that comes with the kit in my hands, I did not figure out how well to fasten it to the pulley. And fastening with one nut seemed unreliable to me. However, when I placed the lever and only lightly screwed on the nut, I saw that the lever held on to the pulley quite confidently. With the help of pliers and muscular strength, giving the lever a curved shape (it bends relatively easily, the main thing is not to break it), I adjusted it into place and tightened the nut. Fastening on one nut turned out to be very reliable.

All attachment options assume that during normal operation of the gas pedal, the servo cable will slip through the attachment point, thereby not creating undue resistance.

It remains to connect the two cables with the included bracket, cut the vacuum hose from the brake booster, stick a tee into it and attach the servo drive with a hose. I tightened the cut off pieces of the brake vacuum hose with clamps, hid the wires and the servo hose in the corrugation.

Posting

Having studied the circuit of the car, I found that the speed signal is output to the instrument panel (connector M01-B, pin 24, green wire with an orange stripe).

The wires are connected using the adhesive tapes included in the kit: we put the adhesive tape on the wire to which we are connecting, stuff the wire to be connected into it, squeeze the adhesive tape with pliers so that the metal clip cuts through the insulation and cuts into the wires, and close the latch.

I decided to connect the power wire from the ignition after the 10A fuse going to the instrument cluster (dashboard). You could, of course, connect to the left connector of the instrument panel (M01-A, pin 10, brown wire with an orange stripe), but I ran into the same wire going to the TCS disable button.

The minus is connected with a bracket directly to the screw on the car body.

I connected the two +12 wires and the brake right next to the brake pedal switch.

There was a special round piece in the car leading to the engine compartment. I made a hole in it and pushed through the wires going to the vacuum drive.

Electronic module

The instructions say to screw the module firmly to the case, but I did not find a suitable place. Having climbed all over the inside, I decided that the space above the upper air ducts behind the center console would be a suitable place. The block is firmly stuck with double-sided tape.

Buttons

The hardest part was finding a place for the buttons so that you don’t have to reach for them and they don’t get in the way. It seemed a good option for me to attach them to the steering column, but if the ignition key gets in the way on the right, then it turned out to be a very convenient place on the left. At the same time, the SET button, which increases the speed, turned out to be at the top, which is closer and dearer to me (however, the inscriptions turned out upside down and the power indicator is not visible; in addition, the buttons are smooth and it is not very convenient to distinguish them tactilely).

Tests

After running through the tests and making sure that everything works, I made a test drive. Before I had time to drive off a couple of meters, the indicator on the block blinked. So, it is necessary to cut off the wire that selects the frequency of the pulses.

I must say that this model can only work with two options for the pulse frequency: 1250 pulses per kilometer and (if you cut the loop wire) – 8000 pulses per kilometer. The cruise control should start working at a speed of 40 km/h, i.e. with 14 or 90 pulses per second. At the same time, its operating range (judging by the reviews on the Internet) is approximately five times – i.e. up to 70 or 450 pulses per second, respectively.

Almost all European cars, including not only mine, but also the products of our wonderful AvtoVAZ, follow European standards and give about 6,000 impulses per kilometer (or 10,000 impulses per mile). So when I’m driving at 60 km/h, the cruise control thinks that I’m only crawling at 45 km/h. Thus, it only starts working when I accelerate to 53 km/h.

However, if someone happens to put this system on a Japanese-made car, things may turn out to be not so chocolatey: Japanese brands give out, according to their Japanese standards, 2500 impulses per kilometer. In other words, with an uncut wire, cruise control will start at 20 km / h and end at 100 (or even earlier). And with a cut wire – as much as 128 km / h.

They say that only Nissan excelled and gives out 1250 pulses per kilometer. In any case, if necessary, I recommend that the owner of the “Japanese” consider more expensive cruise control models that are regulated to a wide variety of pulse frequencies.

For cars with a manual transmission, there is an option to connect to the tachometer pulses. In this case, the cruise control will maintain not the speed, but the engine speed, which, subject to movement in one gear, is the same thing. Accordingly, if the pulses go with a frequency of 2 pulses per engine revolution, this will correspond to the range from 430 to 2700 rpm.

There is a sensitivity switch on the electronic module. In the middle position (default position), cruise control thoughtfully reacted to changes in vehicle speed: when driving uphill, it could lose a lot of speed, and at the end of the ascent, on the contrary, accelerate the car too much. Putting the switch in the H (high sensitivity) position solved the problem. Cruise control confidently, but at the same time smoothly maintains speed.