P0101 MAF Circuit Range

Содержание

Technical Description

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance

What does that mean?

This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is a generic powertrain code, which means that it applies to OBD-II equipped vehicles (Nissan, Chevrolet, GMC, Mercedes, VW, Toyota, Mazda, BMW, Ford, Audi, Honda, etc.). Although generic, the specific repair steps may vary depending on make/model.

The MAF (mass air flow) sensor is a sensor mounted in a vehicle’s engine air intake tract downstream from the air filter, and is used to measure the volume and density of air being drawn into the engine. The MAF sensor itself only measures a portion of the air entering and that value is used to calculate the total volume and density of air being ingested.

The powertrain control module (PCM) uses that reading along with other sensor parameters to ensure proper fuel delivery at any given time for optimum power and fuel efficiency.

Basically this P0101 diagnostic trouble code (DTC) means that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor or circuit. The PCM detects that the actual MAF sensor frequency signal
is not within a predetermined expected range of the calculated MAF value.

Note: Some MAF sensors also incorporate an air temperature sensor, which is another value used by the PCM for optimal engine operation.

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Closely related MAF circuit trouble codes include:

Photo of a MAF sensor:

P0101 MAF Circuit Range

Symptoms

Symptoms of a P0101 code may include:

  • Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination (a.k.a. check engine light)
  • Rough running engine
  • Black smoke from tail pipe
  • Stalling
  • Engine hard start or stalling after it starts
  • Possible other driveability symptoms

Possible Causes

Potential causes for this trouble code may include:

  • Dirty or contaminated mass air flow sensor
  • Failed MAF sensor
  • Intake air leaks
  • MAF sensor electrical harness or wiring problem (open, shorted, frayed, poor connection, etc.)
  • Clogged catalytic converter on some models (GMC/Chevrolet mainly)

Note that other codes may be present if you have a P0101. You may have misfire codes or O2 sensor codes, so it’s important to take a “big picture” look at how the systems work together and effect each other when doing a diagnosis.

Diagnostic Steps & Possible Solutions

Possible diagnostic and repair steps include:

  • Visually inspect all MAF sensor wiring and connectors to make sure they are intact, not frayed, broken, routed too close to ignition wires/coils, relays, motors, etc.
  • Visually inspect for any obvious air leaks in the air intake system
  • Visually *closely* inspect the MAF sensor wires or film to see if you can see contamination such as dirt, dust, oil, etc.
  • If the air filter is dirty, replace it
  • Carefully clean the MAF using MAF cleaner spray is generally a good DIY friendly diagnostic/repair step
  • If the air intake system has a mesh in it, make sure that is also clean (VWs mainly)
  • Loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can trigger this DTC
  • A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set
    at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream
    of the MAF sensor.
  • Use a scan tool to monitor real-time sensor values from the MAF sensor, O2 sensors, etc.
  • Check for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for your particular make/model in case of known issues on your vehicle
  • The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted
    MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor
    at key ON.
  • A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP
    sensor can cause this DTC to set
  • Do an exhaust backpressure test to determine if the catalytic converter may be clogged

If you do need to replace the MAF sensor, we recommend using an original equipment OEM one from the manufacturer rather than buying an aftermarket part.

Note: The use of a reusable oiled air filter could be a cause of this code, if it is over-oiled. Oil can transfer to the fine wire or film inside the MAF sensor and contaminate it. Use something such as MAF cleaner spray to clean the MAF in such situations.

P0101 MAF Sensor Repair Video

This video is not produced by us, it is here as an aid in resolving your P0101 trouble code (DTC).

https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/S5FHIIxJegM?rel=0

If you still need help regarding the P0101 trouble code, please post
your question in our FREE car repair forums.

thanx in advance!!! :liebe011:

I also saved $100 by reading various postings (what did we ever do without the internet???????). Not sure what the output speed sensor costs but I read the input speed sensor itself is about $60 and should only take 20 min to fix – and if it they said it’ll be any longer than 30 min, they’re smoking something. The dealer called and said the part was $100 and it would take 1.5 hrs at $100/hour. I literally laughed at him on the phone and told him what I found and what it should cost. No wonder so many people say bringing your car to the dealer to be fixed is $$$. What a JOKE. DO YOUR RESEARCH – DON’T BE A DUMB CUSTOMER!

Our 2000 Sonata GLS 6cyl 2.5L blew its input speed sensor at 44583 miles (6/05). When the dealer replaced the input speed sensor, it was still under warranty, so no charge, this was in 6/05. It would appear from bill, they replaced the Input speed sensor, and nothing else, and the car did run well afterwards. So I would advise just to replace the input or output sensor first, get the code cleared at the store, and see if your check engine light comes on again.

We currently have 85+k miles on the car. Yesterday (3/21/09) We got code P0720 (Output Speed Sensor circuit malfunction) and P1529 (manuf. control veh. speed idle control auxiliary inputs). Thank you Autozone, unfortunately they don’t carry the parts. . I couldn’t find anything on P1529, but the Autozone guys thought that changing P0720 would probably rectify P1529. After reading these threads, I’m going to try it myself, was going to take to shop tomorrow am, but we’ll see.

Code P0720 is the output speed sensor Im guessing but you have a output speed sensor problem for that code.
Now for the P0500 an the P0501 that is not the input nore the output speed sensor problem. It is a VSS sensor
problem, but is not the VSS in the trany it is the Wheel Speen Sensor on the right front, It is the VSS input to
the ECM, Im either guessing you have a bad sensor or Check the right front axle tone wheel, my guess its cracked
or rusted off in that case you will need a axle! Hope this helps!

My 2001 Elantra would sometimes rev very high when I was on the highway
And it would not go any faster.
I would have to let go the gas pedal and try to pull over
Then as I tried to pull over the car drove normal again

Couldn’t figure out why.
Apparently, the car uses the tranny speed sensor and the right wheel ABS signal to determine the correct speed for engine and tranny.
Yeah, the car doesn’t have ABS brakes but uses the signal for speed and gear correlations

My question is this: Does the left / Driver’s supposed to have a wheel speed sensor / harness as well? (because it doesn’t) Did it get taken off, or is there even supposed to be one there??

P0501 is for the vehicle speed sensor which should be located on the transmission
Either the gear is worn
Or, the wires to the speed sensor is faulty
Or, the sensor is faulty

If your car doesn’t have ABS brakes then there is no need for a wheel speed sensor on the driver’s side
The right front wheel speed sensor and the VSS send information to the PCM and ECU
They determine whether your automatic transmission is in the correct gear for the speed you’re traveling.

Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES

Only if the car has ABS.

P0501 is for the vehicle speed sensor which should be located on the transmission.

Wrong sensor, old boy. As the OP says, the speed input for the engine PCM comes from the front right wheel speed sensor. The VSS on the transmission drives the speedometer in the instrument cluster.

So it’s your guess the code 501 is the sensor on the transaxle?

Thanks ahead for the help.

P0501 Info attached, hope this will help!

Thanks for the charts. I guess I’ll get the ‘ole multi-meter out next weekend and take a look.

The OP mentioned DTC P0501 which refers to the VSS and anything that relates to it.
Both the wheel sensor and transmission VSS are involved with the code.
The OP saw the wheel sensor had a problem.
He fixed that but he still has the issue with the CEL coming back on.
Which leads me to say it can be the VSS on the transmission.
Still, if you believe it has to do with the wheel speed sensor then Okaay.
You have been right so many times it boggles the mind.
So what do you suggest? Replace the wheel speed sensor?
Clean out the tone ring??

Well, if you have replaced the wheel sensor then what could it be?
I read what you said and done. Yet, the CEL is still on??
All I am saying is that there is more than one sensor involved with this code.

The OP mentioned DTC P0501 which refers to the VSS and anything that relates to it.
Both the wheel sensor and transmission VSS are involved with the code.

If that’s true, don’t you find it a little odd that the transmission VSS isn’t mentioned in the Hyundai diagnostic procedure relating to the 501 code?

What leads you to say it’s the VSS on the transmission? Do you know something about this circuit that Hyundai don’t??

I don’t see any point to me suggest anything since wongpfh has posted Hyundai’s suggestions for dealing with the code.

I don’t know if it is true. But, I do know that is what comes up when I goggle P0501

It leads me to other things because I am not stubborn nor stuck on only what I read.
And no, I don’t know more than Hyundai don’t.
But, then again, I don’t put out cars that sometimes turns out to be just junk
Or things that aren’t very good.
ie, for everyday driving in city traffic, putting out cars with DCT.
Stop and go traffic and using DCT????
That is just wrong.

Schematics may be good.
and some procedures work
But, nothing will ever be better than the autotech!!

IF the sensor on the Transaxle is at fault, wouldn’t that affect the speedometer reading? (which appears to be fine)

Man, you crack me up :laugh:
:laugh:All this because I pointed out you were talking about the wrong sensor. :laugh:

Yes, I’m sure it would.

Funny that. I’m surprised none of them mentioned the CEL.

Quoted from yourmechanic.com (search P0501)

“What causes the P0501 code?

The VSS output voltage jumps up or down faster than the ECM expected causing the ECM to determine the VSS is out of specification range for performance.

The VSS voltage output is lower than expected causing a lower than normal speed output compared to actual vehicle speed.”

Quoted from obd-codes.com/p0501

“Basically a P0501 trouble code means that the vehicle’s speed as read by the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is outside of the expected range (too high or low for example). The VSS input is used by the vehicle’s main computer called a PCM/ECM powertrain/engine control module along with other inputs for proper operation of the vehicle systems.”

So, if a VSS is off by five to ten mph while traveling at 55 mph then can the driver always tell the difference?
Hmm, so no one ever mentioned a code for erratic speedometer??
Guess I am just burying myself in this mire and muck
Better to stop while ahead.

OK, but what was the point to quoting these articles? We already know what P0501 means. wongpfh already posted the complete section of the Hyundai manual relating to the code.

Well, I can’t speak for everyone but I think I would notice. But why do you ask?

No, they didn’t. But don’t take my word for it, read for yourself. I’ve found two for you. If your still not convinced search out the other couple for yourself.

2008 Accent – speedometer odometer doesnt work
2009 Accent VSS replacement

I think maybe your confused about what a vehicle speed sensor is. A wheel speed sensor is a vehicle speed sensor (obviously), so when you relate those articles you’ve quoted above to this Hyundai Accent the VSS they’re talking about is the wheel speed sensor, not the sensor on the gearbox.

That is a great idea.

IF it’s the sensor on the transaxle, I will replace it, but I hated to continue to throw money at it, if it’s NOT going to fix the issue.

(it’s a 5 speed standard transaxle if that makes any difference)

^^ In referring to my above reply ^^

Does the sensor pick up from the wheel bearing, or a ring on the CV axle??

I’ve not had to diagnose any wheel speed sensor faults on later model Hyundai models, but I don’t think the Hyundai bearings on are magnetic.
If there’s a tone wheel on the axle then I doubt there will be a magnet on the bearing. I can’t think of any reason to have both.

I’m confident that the gearbox sensor has nothing to do with your issue. I’m pretty sure Hyundai would have mentioned it in the diagnostic procedure for dealing with the code if it was.

What I would be looking at if the air gap between the sensor and the tone wheel. Also carefully check that the tone wheel isn’t cracked. They often crack in the gap between the teeth due to corrosion on the axle under the ring.

Did you check the power supply to the sensor as advised in the diagnostic procedure? Have you checked the vehicle speed on your scan tool data list?

Mostly, I have seen tone rings on the CV axle used by Hyundai.
Other manufacturer may use the wheel bearing

Описание P2159 ошибки автомобиля KIA. В нашем справочнике имеется следующая информация:

На русском языке:

Датчик скорости автомобиля B – диапазон/функционирование

На английском языке:

Vehicle Speed Sensor “B” Range/Performance

Выберите модель для возможности более детального просмотра информации по этой ошибке:

Принимая во внимание тот факт, что OBD2 ошибки работы электронных систем автомобиля не всегда на прямую указывают на неработающий элемент, а чаще дают всего лишь общую информацию о неисправности, мы пришли к следующему выводу:

В разных марках и моделях автомобилей одна и также ошибка может возникать как следствие неисправности абсолютно разных элементов.

Стало понятно, что просто необходим ресурс в котором можно найти не только общую информацию об OBD2 ошибке, а практические данные по конкретному автомобилю.

Опыт автоэлектриков показал, что если рассматривать определенную марка-модель автомобиля, то в подавляющем большинстве случаев причина возникновения какой либо ошибки одна и также.

Мы создаем, не без вашей помощи, справочник причинно-следственной связи возникновения той или иной OBD2 ошибки у конкретного автомобиля (марка и модель). Если на Ваш автомобиль не найдено описание (причинно-следственной связи) ошибки, то не стесняйтесь задавайте вопрос.

Если у вас есть опыт в устранении той или иной ошибки – делитесь опытом с другими пользователями. Так мы сможем сформировать полезный ресурс. По капле от каждого и всем будет полезно.

Возможно будет интересно:

Если ошибка указывает на неверные параметры (высокие или низкие значения) какого нибудь из датчиков или анализаторов, то вероятней всего этот элемент исправен, а проблему надо искать так сказать “выше по течению”, в элементах работу которых анализирует датчик или зонд.

Если ошибка указывает на постоянно открытый или закрытый клапан, то тут надо подойти к решению вопроса с умом, а не менять бездумно этот элемент. Причин может быть несколько: клапан засорен, клапан заклинил, на клапан приходит неверный сигнал от других неисправных узлов.

Автомобили с каждым днем становятся все более сложными, но и более диагностируемыми. Наш форум создан для всех, от простых автолюбителей до профессиональных автоэлектриков.

Kod błędu P2159 brzmi jak „czujnik prędkości pojazdu „B” zakres/ parametry”. Często w oprogramowaniu skanera OBD-2 nazwa może mieć angielską pisownię „Vehicle Speed Sensor „B” Range/Performance”.

Opis techniczny i dekodowanie błędu P2159

Ten diagnostyczny kod błędu (DTC) jest ogólnym kodem transmisji. Błąd P2159 jest uważany za kod ogólny, ponieważ dotyczy wszystkich marek i modeli pojazdów. Poszczególne etapy naprawy mogą się nieznacznie różnić w zależności od modelu.

P0101 MAF Circuit Range

Kod błędu OBD2 P2159 wskazuje, że prędkość pojazdu odczytana przez czujnik prędkości pojazdu (VSS) jest poza oczekiwanym zakresem. Na przykład zbyt wysoka lub zbyt niska. Czujnik prędkości pojazdu (VSS) przekazuje do modułu ECM (Engine Control Module) informacje o prędkości pojazdu. Do wyświetlania przez prędkościomierz i licznik kilometrów.

Realizuje to poprzez przekazywanie sygnału składającego się z 4 impulsów na każdy obrót wału wirnika, który obraca wał wyjściowy za pośrednictwem napędzanej przekładni. VSS jest zwykle czujnikiem elektromagnetycznym, który wykorzystuje obroty do przekazywania sygnału do ECM.

Manipulacje te są rozpoznawane przez moduł PCM jako prędkość wyjściowa skrzyni biegów lub prędkość pojazdu. Dzięki temu na prędkościomierzu pojawia się znany nam wskaźnik prędkości.

Objawy wadliwego działania

Głównym objawem błędu P2159 dla kierowcy jest świecenie lampki kontrolnej awarii (MIL), którą można nazwać CheckEngine.

Mogą się one również objawiać jako:

  • Wyłączenie systemu zapobiegającego blokowaniu kół podczas hamowania (ABS) oraz systemu kontroli trakcji (TCS).
  • Mogą zapalić się lampki kontrolne (ABS) lub lampki hamulcowe na tablicy przyrządów.
  • Prędkościomierz lub licznik kilometrów może nie działać prawidłowo lub może w ogóle nie działać.
  • Ogranicznik obrotów pojazdu może być niższy niż normalnie.
  • Automatyczna skrzynia biegów może mieć problemy ze zmianą biegów.
  • Mogą wystąpić inne objawy.

Błąd P2159 jest istotnym problemem, ponieważ może powodować problemy z przełączaniem biegów i jazdą. W przypadku wykrycia tego kodu zaleca się jak najszybsze usunięcie usterki.

Kod P2159 może oznaczać, że wystąpił jeden lub więcej z następujących problemów:

  • Czujnik prędkości pojazdu (VSS) nie jest prawidłowo odczytywany i dlatego odczyt jest niedostateczny.
  • Otwarty lub postrzępiony przewód prowadzący do czujnika prędkości pojazdu.
  • Złe połączenie w obwodzie czujnika prędkości pojazdu (VSS).
  • Moduł PCM pojazdu jest nieprawidłowo ustawiony dla rzeczywistego rozmiaru opon, które są używane.
  • Uszkodzenie zębnika napędowego czujnika prędkości.
  • Moduł sterowania silnikiem (ECM) może być uszkodzony.

Jak skasować lub zresetować kod błędu P2159

Kilka sugerowanych kroków rozwiązywania problemów i korygowania kodu błędu P2159:

  • Najpierw należy odczytać wszystkie zapisane dane i kody błędów za pomocą skanera OBD-II.
  • Następnie należy skasować kody błędów i przeprowadzić jazdę próbną, aby upewnić się, że problem nie występuje.
  • Następnie należy sprawdzić czujnik prędkości pojazdu i wszystkie odpowiednie przewody pod kątem zużycia i uszkodzeń.
  • Za pomocą narzędzia skanującego należy również sprawdzić, czy podczas jazdy nie jest emitowany sygnał czujnika prędkości.
  • Jeśli nie występują opisane wyżej problemy, sprawdź napięcie czujnika prędkości za pomocą multimetru.

Diagnozowanie i rozwiązywanie problemów

Warto najpierw sprawdzić Biuletyny Techniczne (TSB) dla samochodów konkretnej marki, w których występuje błąd P2159. Jeśli istniejący problem został opisany, postępowanie zgodnie z instrukcjami może zaoszczędzić czas i pieniądze podczas diagnozowania i usuwania problemu.

Sprawdzić wzrokowo wszystkie przewody i złącza prowadzące do czujnika prędkości. Należy uważnie szukać otarć, odsłoniętych drutów lub pęknięć. Należy również zwrócić uwagę na miejsca stopione lub uszkodzone w inny sposób. W razie potrzeby naprawić.

Umiejscowienie czujnika zależy od pojazdu, nie zawsze jest on zamontowany w skrzynce. Może on znajdować się na tylnej osi skrzyni biegów lub na zespole piasty koła (hamulca).

Jeśli okablowanie i złącza nie wykazują żadnych nieprawidłowości, sprawdź napięcie na czujniku prędkości. Dokładna procedura będzie zależeć od marki i modelu samochodu. Jest bardzo prawdopodobne, że to on jest przyczyną problemu, dlatego należy wymienić czujnik.

W których samochodach ten problem występuje częściej

Problem z kodem P2159 może wystąpić w różnych maszynach, ale zawsze istnieją statystyki dotyczące tego, w których maszynach ten błąd występuje częściej. Poniżej znajduje się lista niektórych z nich:

  • Dodge
  • Honda
  • Hyundai (Avante, Solaris, Sonata, ix35)
  • Jeep
  • Kia (Ceed, Cerato, Morning, Optima, Picanto, Rio, Soul, Sportage)
  • Ssangyong
  • Volkswagen
  • MAZ
  • PAZ

W przypadku kodu usterki P2159 czasami mogą wystąpić inne błędy. Najczęstsze z nich są następujące: P0138, P0170, P0447, P0500, P0501, P0502, P0503, P0510, P0661, P0700, P2158, P2160, P2161.

#1

10 mo ago

my 2008 Kia Sportage has failed its MOT due to the ABS light being on.

My mobile mechanic had taken a look at it and orignially got an error code P1767 : CAN ABS Loss of Signal H

He deemed he couldnt fix and recommended a Auto Electrical location in Southampton.

there they checked the fault codes and got a C1112 error and they tell me the ABS sensor was discharging at 5V

they also tell me there was a Code C1274 on the Longitudinal G sensor with a “range Performance error”

They contacted a local Kia dealer to get a replacement ABS sensor but were put off when the dealer told them “thats a problem with the Air Bag Sensor”

after that the Auto Electrical location washed their hands of it.

Does anyone have any recommendations how to affordably get the car through the MOT?

Welcome to the forum, ‘Nod’.

I hesitate to answer as we may differ in our interpretation of ‘affordably’. However, you have come up against one of the problems with entrusting the maintenance of your vehicle to ‘my mobile mechanic’ who may or may not have the means to identify and rectify the problem.

The auto-electrical location have washed their hands of it, you say; most strange!

The KIA mechanics are better placed to diagnose and repair faults than almost all independents.

#3

10 mo ago

Affordable, is trying to not spend too much money and have a car at the end of it.

We all know that 2nd hand car values are through the roof. So if I have no fix, I’ll obviously need new car

2018 Sportage 3 1.7crdi, 2007 Picanto 1.1

#5

10 mo ago

yes, the car has sometimes felt “different” driving into parking spaces in the supermarket.

I have looked into it a bit more. I’m not sure which generation has the g sensor in the airbag and which is under the centre console.

#7

10 mo ago

you’ve reminded me, The auto electrical garage did initially mention water/moisture around a sensor under the handbrake but could not elaborate how much

they had the car Thursday / Friday / Monday mentioned this on thursday but didn’t mention it again.

#8

10 mo ago

Ive taken it to another diagnotics place and theyve told me categorically my problem is the G Sensor.

now my issue is. The local kia parts say there is no stock of that part in the UK.

any where to get a 95640-3J000?

Could try ebay. Or Hyundai as they use the same part no.

P0101 MAF Circuit Range

Hope you got a deep pocket as this does not look like a cheap part new.

I would want to know that was all good before splashing out an expensive sensor.

Here we go with inbuilt obsolescence again.
Not sure what a 2008 Sportage is worth in “normal” times but when you get a sensor like this go and might only be available new at £400 + fitting, you start to think should I cut my losses and send an otherwise perfectly good car to the breaker yard in the sky.,
Even though manufacturers are supposed to supply parts for cars up to 10 years old, they aren’t directed what price they can charge so a seemingly simple sensor can cost mega bucks.
My daughter got stuck in this trap last year when her Honda Jazz was showing the airbag light. It was the drivers side B pillar sensor at a cost of £185 + vat from Honda as they weren’t available used.
The sensor itself is fairly simple affair but as the auto electrician said, they fail so rarely that after market doesn’t exist so Honda have you over a barrel.

I think this sort of thing (perfectly good cars “killed” by by a simple sensor) is only going to get worse with cars having more and more electrical wizardry.

This is the problem with living in the time of the ‘Throw away society’. We in the UK threw away toasters, irons, kettles and many other domestic essentials when they broke down whereas many other countries had a little old man in a small shop in every town and village who mended things for little money.

Can we ever really change or are we so wedded to the idea of new cars every 24, 36 or 48 months, because having the latest, flashiest cars parked outside our houses is the most important thing in our lives?

In the currant financial climate i think people try to repair their cars instead of throwing it away and getting another one at great expense. i’ve heard “its not worth spending the money on it ” frequently in garages over the years sometimes this may have been true (only the owner can decide) but a lot of times the garage used it as an excuse not to do the work or they didnt have the skill or confidence to fix it. i had a passat for 25 years and when it got to the point of only being worth a few hundred of pounds, i had in my mind that if it broke i was willing to spend up to £2000 on the repair, my rational was that if i was going to get rid i would buy new so a working car for £2000 was cheap ! i always keep my cars for a long time 10 years plus usually gives me time to save up for the next.

It might be worth phoning Kiapartsdirect (Fish Brothers Swindon),they sometimes can supply items which appear to be ‘unobtainable’ from Kia Dealers.
Members of this forum can sometimes get a small discount,although that probably varies with item types.
They do not list everything on their website – so if any item does not appear on website – definitely worth a call.

#16

10 mo ago

Thanks, i’ll make contact with them today.

The version in centre console £36 on amazon

#18

10 mo ago

you got a link for that, Please?

Sorry no idea how to do that. Google kia sportage 2008 g sensor amazon.

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